A Twist Of Sand

A peremptory official "no "cut across our plans; such was the suspicion of officials that we even wanted to go to the Kaokoveld for no well-defined purpose, that we decided it was useless to try and press it. Instead, we took Mark's Land Rover and made for a great tableland of unexplored mountains and peaks along the southern border. It was from a peak 5,000 feet above the Hoanib River that I first saw the wild tangle of mountains and gullys, shimmering, reflecting, changing colours like chameleons in the mica-ridden air. The isolated peak, which had taken us from early till mid-morning to climb, jutted up on a high peninsula which stood out towards the "river "on its southern side. Using my powerful naval binoculars I could see the green of the tiny settlement of Zessfontein fifteen miles away on my right; on my left the air was clear and one could almost detect the clean sparkle of the sea — a glimmer of white moving, changing, reflecting, seemed to be the remorseless surf shattering itself against the coast, with the whole force of the South Atlantic behind it. Far away below on my left a ragged herring-bone pattern of gullies marking its backbone into the mountains, I could see the "river," the dry sand merely being whiter and more defined than the surrounding dun to which the eyes were accustomed. A 4,000 foot clill' beyond, we had decided were the Geinas mountains, but it was impossible to fix them for the Kaokoveld has never been surveyed.

"Moses viewing the promised land," remarked Mark.

"Like hell!" I replied. "Why would anyone want to go there?"

"For Mallory's reason — 'because it is there'," replied Mark.

He scanned the forbidden land with his own glasses.

"Why shouldn't we go on?" he said impetuously. "No one would know. We've both wanted to — look at it!" he cried with a wide sweep of his arm.

"Let's call this a reconnaissance in force," I said, for I had no wish to get tied up with the authorities. "We'll get there — one day."

We had left it at that. Trips with Mark were a joy. As the bus bucketed on, I wondered if he had a new one in mind. We would plan weeks ahead, whenever I brought Etosha to port. Mark was a fine climber and an ardent lover of exploring unknown ranges and tracts of country "just because they are there "as the famous Everest climber said. Without his Land Rover, however, it would have been suicide to try. Fitted with twelve forward gears and a Rolls-Royce engine, it was a superb vehicle for the untracked wilderness. The low gearing and four-wheel drive made it ideal for the shifting sand-dunes, where any other type of vehicle, even a more conventional jeep, would have stuck. We would load under the canvas hood food, guns, tents, lamps, camp beds and the like; water was carried in special jerry-cans fixed in steel brackets welded to the side; when it was all packed and lashed down under the canvas against the sand Jannie, the cross-bred Ridgeback, would leap on top and we would disappear for weeks at a time. The Land Rover had a car compass fitted, but Mark was delighted when I brought a sextant and a boat's compass, for navigation in the sand is not unlike finding one's way on the open sea. The only sort of maps of the area are aeronautical, but the scale is small, and they are full of inaccuracies.

To a sailor it was the incredible silences of dusk and evening which were even more remarkable than the age-old, saurian-like rocks, fretted by sand and wind until many of the softer ones eroded like palms bent in a Pacific wind. The Land Rover would almost merge into the blackness beside the tiny flicker of fire which elevated us above the wild animals; the stars looked larger than at sea because of the refraction of the dust; there might be an occasional, disembodied howl from some mysterious marauder of the sands which never showed itself by day, like the black hyena; at the end of a long day's run gin never tasted as fine as it joined in the great conspiracy of soothing, selfless silence.

The bus changed gears again, bringing more choking sand into the interior. Swakopmund lay ahead. In the late autumn twilight it looked dreary in the extreme, drearier than Mark's comment that it was dull now the season had ended would have led me to believe. The cluster of unattractive houses, hanging perilously between the desert and the sea, seemed lifeless and neglected. The sea beyond, grey and glassy, held the menace of a north-west gale which would send every skipper into the nearest harbour posthaste.

The bus ground to a standstill at the terminus. Stiff and dusty, I got down. It was only a minute's walk to Mark's place. As I stepped down my growing sense of frustration and irritation suddenly blazed. For there stood Hendriks, the coloured skipper, on the sandy pavement, grinning impertinently at me. I paused and gazed levelly at the taunting grin.