The Tao of Travel

AS A YOUNG man he traveled alone, walking across Europe from Holland to Turkey in 1933, a trip he described many years later in two books, A Time of Gifts (1977) and Between the Woods and the Water (1986). He is justly famous for having written one of the most evocative books about the Caribbean, The Traveler's Tree (1950) (see Chapter 23, "Classics of a Sense of Place"). He makes no bones about traveling in a group, and in fact has a felicitous way of describing this: "My companions, from beginning to end, were two friends: Joan, who's English, and Costa, who is Greek. Both of them, whittled now to shadows, are constantly present in the following pages."

Edward Abbey and Family

A GREAT HERO of loners and wanderers, high-plains drifters and monkey-wrenchers (eco-saboteurs), Abbey, a contradictory soul, craved the company of others, usually fellow boozers. But he had a way of pretending to have been solitary, being selective in the retelling of his experiences. In Desert Solitaire, where he celebrates solitude and his lonely communing with nature in southern Utah, he does not mention that for one five-month period he was living in a trailer with his third wife, Rita, and young son. Whole chapters of the book, such as "The Moon-Eyed Horse," "very likely never happened at all," his biographer, James Cahalan, wrote.

Wilfred Thesiger and Friends

OFTEN THOUGHT OF as the solitary nomad of the Empty Quarter, Thesiger could not bear to be alone. In his Wilfred Thesiger: The Life of the Great Explorer, Alexander Maitland writes, "As for Thesiger's pursuit of 'the peace that comes with solitude,' by his own admission he found solitude unbearable. His friend John Verney [a painter] described him as someone who 'hates being left alone for more than a minute. He may travel in remote parts of the world, but always accompanied by a crowd of tribesmen, porters or whatever and has probably spent fewer hours in total solitude than, like most painters, I'm accustomed to spend in a week. By solitude, Thesiger appears to have meant something like the 'clean' space of desert undefiled by modern communications or modern transport, and the harmonious traditional life he found among the tribes who lived there." In later life Thesiger lived with an African family in northern Kenya. They demanded money, cars, and radios, and he paid up, not minding that he was being fleeced as long as they kept him company.

Jean Cocteau, Passepartout, and Charlie Chaplin

PART STUNT, PART challenge by Paris-Soir, but primarily a literary opportunity, Cocteau (1889-1963) claimed that he could travel at least as well as Phileas Fogg and make it around the world in eighty days. He set off in March 1946, accompanied by his lover and part-time secretary Marcel Khill, whom he called Passepartout in the book Mon Premier Voyage (1937). He had met Khill in 1932, when Cocteau was forty-three and Khill twenty (though he looked fifteen, Cocteau said). The book was translated as My Journey Round the World. In an introduction to a new edition, the actor and writer Simon Callow wrote: "[Khill] and Cocteau met at the house of a Toulon naval officer ... who had 'discovered' him working on a chain gang; he was dispensing opium, thus uniting in his person two of Cocteau's keenest appetites."

The book, a breathless diary, was dedicated to André Gide. In the course of traveling through Malaya, Cocteau puns in French on the name Kuala Lumpur, calling it "Kuala l'impure," but it is clear that he is too bored, fatigued, and preoccupied to care much about the places he is breezing through, mere glimpses of Egypt, India, Burma, Malaya, and Singapore, with slapdash diary entries.

And then, on a ship from Hong Kong, the tone of the book rises to a new register: "Charlie Chaplin is on board. It is a staggering piece of news. Later on, Chaplin was to say, 'The real function of a person's work is to make it possible for friends like ourselves to cut out preliminaries. We have always known each other.'" Cocteau had never met Chaplin before, but he is dazzled, and after this encounter the book catches fire—not as a travel book but as the account of a new friendship between two stage-struck and bedazzled celebrities, both highly creative and eccentric—and libidinous (Chaplin was traveling with Paulette Goddard). It so happened that Chaplin and Cocteau were exactly the same age, born in 1889 and forty-seven at that point. Chaplin had just made Modern Times, and as a composer (he wrote the song "Smile," for example) he was just as versatile as Cocteau.