Out of a gothic North, the pallid childrenOf a potato, beer-or-whiskyGuilt culture, we behave like our fathers and comeSouthward into a sunburnt otherwhereOf vineyards, baroque, la bella figura,To these feminine townships where menAre males, and siblings untrained in a ruthlessVerbal in-fighting as it is taughtIn Protestant rectories upon drizzlingSunday afternoons-no more as unwashedBarbarians out for gold, nor as profiteersHot for Old Masters, but for plunderNevertheless-some believing amoreIs better down South and much cheaper(Which is doubtful), some persuaded exposureTo strong sunlight is lethal to germs(Which is patently false) and others, like me,In middle-age hoping to twig fromWhat we are not what we might be next, a questionThe South seems never to raise. PerhapsA tongue in which Nestor and Apemantus,Don Ottavio and Don Giovanni makeEqually beautiful sounds is unequippedTo frame it, or perhaps in this heatIt is nonsense: the Myth of an Open RoadWhich runs past the orchard gate and beckonsThree brothers in turn to set out over the hillsAnd far away, is an inventionOf a climate where it is a pleasure to walkAnd a landscape less populatedThan this one. Even so, to us it looks very oddNever to see an only child engrossedIn a game it has made up, a pair of friendsMaking fun in a private lingo,Or a body sauntering by himself who is notWanting, even as it perplexesOur ears when cats are called Cat and dogs eitherLupo, Nero or Bobby. Their diningPuts us to shame: we can only envy a peopleSo frugal by nature it costs themNo effort not to guzzle and swill. Yet (if IRead their faces rightly after ten years)They are without hope. The Greeks used to call the SunHe-who-smites-from-afar, and from here, whereShadows are dagger-edged, the daily ocean blue,I can see what they meant: his unwinkingOutrageous eye laughs to scorn any notionOf change or escape, and a silentEx-volcano, without a stream or a bird,Echoes that laugh. This could be a reasonWhy they take the silencers off their Vespas,Turn their radios up to full volume,And a minim saint can expect rockets-noiseAs a counter-magic, a way of sayingBoo to the Three Sisters: "Mortal we may be,But we are still here!" might cause them to hankerAfter proximities-in streets packed solidWith human flesh, their souls feel immuneTo all metaphysical threats. We are rather shocked,But we need shocking: to accept space, to ownThat surfaces need not be superficialNor gestures vulgar, cannot reallyBe taught within earshot of running waterOr in sight of a cloud. As pupilsWe are not bad, but hopeless as tutors:Goethe, Tapping homeric hexametersOn the shoulder-blade of a Roman girl, is(I wish it were someone else) the figureOf all our stamp: no doubt he treated her well,But one would draw the line at callingThe Helena begotten on that occasion,Queen of his Second Walpurgisnacht,Her baby: between those who mean by a life aBildungsroman and those to whom livingMeans to-be-visible-now, there yawns a gulfEmbraces cannot bridge. If we tryTo "go southern", we spoil in no time, we growFlabby, dingily lecherous, andForget to pay bills: that no one has heard of themTaking the Pledge or turning to YogaIs a comforting thought-in that case, for allThe spiritual loot we tuck away,We do them no harm-and entitles us, I thinkTo one little scream at A piacere,Not two. Go I must, but I go grateful (evenTo a certain Monte) and invokingMy sacred meridian names, Vito, Verga,Pirandello, Bernini, Bellini,To bless this region, its vendages, and thoseWho call it home: though one cannot alwaysRemember exactly why one has been happy,There is no forgetting that one was.