Descriptionary

head-rail a linen square arranged about the head. In the later portion of the century it was wired into elaborate shapes and trimmed with lace.

hose a man's body stockings, from waist to feet.

jacket same as today's jacket.

jerkin a sleeved or sleeveless waistcoat, worn over the doublet.

kerchief a large square of material worn as a shawl over the shoulders.

kirtle before 1545, a bodice and skirt; after 1545, the skirt alone.

lappet a decorative border on an English hood; it hung down on either side of the face or was turned up and pinned to the crown.

loose gown a garment that hung loosely in folds from the shoulders.

mandilion a loose, hip-length jacket with a stand­ing collar.

mantle a large, diaphanous piece of material worn as a shawl.

Mary Stuart hood a hood wired into a heart shape.

Milan bonnet a cornered hat with a turned-up, slit brim and a soft, pleated crown.

muckminder slang for handkerchief or napkin.

mules flat shoes without backs.

nightcap a men's indoor, linen cap.

nightgown a fur-lined gown worn by men and women either indoors or outdoors.

panes a decorative technique of slashing material vertically, as in a doublet or other outer garment.

pantofles short leather boots with thick cork soles.

pauldrons armor pieces that covered the shoulders.

peascod a form of doublet having a swollen belly, reminiscent of the shape of a pea pod.

petticoat an underskirt.

pinking a decorative pattern of small holes or slits.

points ribbon, linen, or silk laces tipped with aglets, used most frequently to tie hose to a doublet.

puffs material pulled through slashes in an outer garment. See panes.

rail a square of material worn around the head or on the shoulders like a shawl.

rebato a wired collar that stands up around the back of the head and fans out in a series of pleats, worn by women.

rerebrace an armor piece that protects the upper arm.

ruching folded gathers used as a form of trim.

ruff a radiating, pleated, and layered neckband made of lace or linen. A ruff of lace folded in a figure- 8 pattern was popular.

shag a thick cloth and fur lining.

shoe rose a ribbon or lace rosette used to decorate shoes.

smock a woman's T-shaped undergarment.

spangles decorative metal pieces.

Spanish breeches long breeches ending below the knee.

Steinkerk a loosely tied scarf or cravat worn with its ends drawn through a buttonhole or pinned to a coat.

stomacher an inverted triangle of stiffened material on a bodice.

sugarloaf hat a very high domed hat with a brim turned up on one side, made from block felt and worn by women. Formerly known as a copotain.

tippet a waist-length cape.

tricorne a triangular or three-cornered hat with turned-up brim, worn by men.

trunk hose padded or billowing round breeches.

wings decorative epaulettes on doublets and jerkins.

CLOTHING OF THE 17TH CENTURY

aigrette a tuft of feathers held together by gem- stones.

basque a wide band that attached below a bodice or doublet. Also, a close-fitting bodice.

beaver a hat made from beaver fur.

blackwork black embroidery on white linen.

bombast cotton padding used to fill out garments.

boot hose an everyday hose worn over fine hose to protect it from boot wear.

breeches knee-length pants.

canions short, pantlike extensions worn with trunk hose.

cloak a coat, sometimes sleeved, and sometimes having a cape.

clocks embroidery on the sides of stockings.

cornet a woman's cap, having ribbons and stream­ers, and worn on the back of the head.

doublet a man's sleeved jacket, buttoned down the front.

Dutch breeches breeches ending above the knee.

echelles bows of graduating length in a row running down the front of a stomacher.

falling band a turned-down collar.

farthingale the hooped understructure of a hoop skirt. Also, the skirt itself.

fontange a high, tiered, frilled woman's headdress worn on the back of the head.

frogging ornamental braids, buttons, and loops running down the front of a garment, most often associated with military uniforms.

gaberdine a long, loose coat having wide sleeves.

gauntlets gloves reminiscent of the armored gloves worn by knights but having decorative embroidery and fringes; worn by both sexes.

gorget a steel collar that protected the throat.

jerkin a sleeveless jacket worn over the doublet by men.

kerchief a folded square of material worn around the neck and shoulders.

lappets lace or linen streamers running down from the back of a woman's hat.

mantua a loose gown sashed or belted at the waist.

mules flat shoes with toe caps and no backs.

nightcap an embroidered, informal hat worn by men, not necessarily at night.